Vientiane
Vientiane delivers a relaxing riverside break where one of the best things you can do is grab a drink and enjoy the sun’s spectacular show as it sets over the Mekong. Despite being the largest city in Laos and the hub of commerce and administration, Vientiane is still refreshingly laid back.
The city offers a great choice of accommodation, restaurants and pavement cafes some adding a French air with their style of architecture which contrasts pleasingly with the old Buddhist temples dotted around. There are plenty of things to do after dark and bars cater to all tastes from backpacker beer haunts to elegant cocktail lounges. Navigating Vientiane is relatively simple due to its size and sightseeing can be done either on foot, by bike or by hiring a song-teow. The countryside is never far away, with rice paddies providing a backdrop to most streets. Culture buffs should make the Laos National Museum their first stop.
When in Laos, do as the Laos do and the slow the pace right down. A common joke is that acronym PDF (Peoples Democratic Republic) actually stands for ‘Please Slow Down’. A word of warning to the anally punctual, the country is decidedly laid back and some visitors may mistake this for a lack of ambition or impolitesse but regardless, it's best not to expect things to run like clockwork.
Vientiane Weather
Vientiane has a tropical climate with a dry season and a wet season typical of Laos and its neighbouring countries. Temperatures range from warm to hot, with some very humid days when the rains mark the start of the southwest monsoon season in May or June. Rainy conditions continue through to the end of October, then the northeast monsoon arrives bringing with it drier and cooler days.
November through February feature the most comfortable, sunny days in Vientiane, then the temperatures rise in March, April and May.
Vientiane has a tropical climate with a dry season and a wet season typical of Laos and its neighbouring countries. Temperatures range from warm to hot, with some very humid days when the rains mark the start of the southwest monsoon season in May or June. Rainy conditions continue through to the end of October, then the northeast monsoon arrives bringing with it drier and cooler days.
November through February feature the most comfortable, sunny days in Vientiane, then the temperatures rise in March, April and May.
Wattay International Airport
Wattay International Airport is located just 3km from the country’s capital city Vientiane. A single terminal building houses arrivals and departures for domestic flights and a new terminal building services international flights. At one end of the terminal is a military installation which is off-limits to everyday passengers. The terminals have been upgraded in recent years to provide more comfortable facilities and more services for travellers.
Wattay International Airport services regular scheduled flights for Lao Airlines, Thai Airways International, Air Asia, China Southern Airlines, China Eastern Airlines, and Vietnam Airlines.
Arrival
When you land in Vientiane you should head straight for the passport control desks inside the terminal building. If you need to apply for a visa-on-arrival head to the signed desk, submit your application form (which you can download prior to travel), your passport, two passport photos and US$20-45 depending on your nationality. US, UK and European nationals are charged US$35.00 while people from Canada are charged US$42.00. Swedes pay US$31.00 and Australians can purchase the visa for US$30.00. This must be paid in US dollars or Thai baht. The visa is good for 30 days. The application will only take a few minutes then you should go through passport control before claiming your baggage and heading out into the arrivals hall. Here you will find an ATM and a currency exchange booth which may or may not be open depending on the time of your arrival.
Airport Transfer
Jumbos do one way airport transfers for around $10USD; you can also purchase a taxi coupon from inside the terminal building for an alternative and economical route into the city. Tuk-tuks will also take you to and from the airport if you are happy to pay an overinflated price. The local bus is the cheapest option but you will need to walk about 500 metres at the other end. Most hotels will also be able to pick you up from the airport by advance arrangement.
For transportation back from your hotel to the airport you may need to negotiate a fee with a taxi or tuk-tuk driver.
Getting Around Vientiane – Local Transport Options
Vientiane is pretty easy to move around in although be warned that most maps are not very accurate and rarely to scale. Traffic here is not as thunderous as other Southeast Asian cities and the local people will help where they can but most do not speak much English so bring a translation guide book if seeking directions. Also be warned if attempting to use a pedestrian crossing as drivers do not pay them any attention and generally will not stop.
Taxis are readily available with fares being negotiated as you go, most are also happy to be rented for the day at a cost of around $30USD. Tuk-tuks and song-teows also navigate the city streets. Tuk-tuk drivers usually charge the most and will not barter on a fare.
White mini-buses and the old blue and white ones take passengers out of the city to places such as Buddha Park and Friendship Bridge, the one signposted to the airport does not actually go quite that far and you will need to walk a bit at the other end. Vientiane lends itself very well to navigation on bikes which can be hired by the day by leaving a small deposit. Cars can also be hired through international companies such as Europcar as long as you are happy to take a chance on the local erratic driving.
One of the Laos people's favourite pastimes – as will become apparent when you are there – is sitting and watching the time pass by. The French coined the phrase: ‘The Vietnamese plant the rice, the Cambodians watch it grow and the Laos listen to it grow’. Understandably, this is not in everyone’s nature, but a few hours of guzzling Beer Lao on the tranquil shores of the Mekong, is kind of mandatory for any Vientiane visitor.
Alternatively, the numerous educational sites, natural wonders and startling scenery should satisfy. For those who want to work up a sweat by other means than walking, trying taking an arranged hike, bike ride or working your way around one of the picturesque golf courses
Lao Herbal Steam Sauna and Massage
Spas and massage shops are in plentiful supply in Vientiane, offering something for every budget. But for something more memorable, take the three kilometre trip out of the centre to Wat Sok Pa Luang, and down a path to the side of the temple you will find a rickety old jungle house offering Lao massage and traditional herbal spa; a hand-painted sign points the way.
The traditional massage and herbal sauna experience at Wat Sok Pa Luang isn’t for everyone as the facilities are basic, on the other end of the spectrum to a fancy hotel spa treatment, without the sycophantic staff or exclusiveness. But what you do get is the most authentic experience, with true Laotian hospitality and massage beds so close to the forest you can reach out and touch it. This massage centre originally became famous as the place where nuns from the adjoining temple gave healing massages to monks. The nuns are no longer there, but the therapeutic and utterly relaxing environment lives on. Life here is so laidback, even the chickens pecking through the foliage seem to take their time.
Visitors are first asked to change into a sarong and then enter the sauna, a rustic wooden slatted outhouse. The steam is infused with an intensely fragrant mix of fresh herbs and spices, including lemongrass, basil, mint, rosemary and eucalyptus. These ingredients are prepared and placed in water that is heated on an open fire burning below the shed. The effect is like a steam-slap in the face, but you quickly acclimatise and with each deep breath, the herbs work their magic, opening up pores and cleansing lungs. Once you feel suitably relaxed, it’s time for a quick ‘shower’ using a big earthen pot which is filled with fresh water from an underground well.
Next, it’s on to the massage. Laos massage is similar to its Thai cousin, just a little softer and more relaxing. It still gets the blood pumping into every muscle though, leaving you relaxed, yet more invigorated, like every good massage should. The traditional spa is really something different, as the sounds of the forest and the sunshine breaking through the bamboo shades are as central to the experience as the massage itself. Once you have been rubbed and massaged from your feet right up to your head, hot tea is served on the open veranda looking out into the forest.
Not within walking distance, a trip to Wat Sok Pa Luang might be as far from the tourist centre as you will travel during your stay in Vientiane. Having said that, it is only a ten minute motorbike ride away, travelling east past Talat Sao Morning Market and the COPE Visitor Centre.
This is the kind of leisure activity that is slowly being lost; replaced by modern spas with all the latest amenities but none of the mystical charisma. The traditional spa and herbal massage at Wat Sok Pa Luang is exactly the kind of therapeutic treatment that was taking place in Laos over a century ago when the French colonists were dotting the landscape with grand villas and allows visitors a chance to experience a side of Laos that is slowly slipping into the confines of history.
Houey Hong Vocational Training Centre for Women
Houey Hong Vocational Training Centre for Women was established originally to provide training in the art of weaving for Lao women from poor backgrounds. Over time, with funding from international non-governmental organizations, the training centre has expanded its scope to include minority ethnic groups and disabled folk.
The Centre was founded by Japanese-educated Chanthasone Inthavong in 1998, and offers short courses in weaving, dyeing, sewing and small business administration. Together with the job placement programme, it hopes to help generate income for people from disadvantaged backgrounds.
Situated seven km from Vientiane city centre in a Houey Hong Village, Chanthabury District, the centre is surrounded by a pleasant garden. There are altogether eight buildings, some of which are dedicated studios and workshop areas for weaving, dyeing, and tailoring.
The sporadic nature of its funding means that the centre has to support itself and it does so by selling crafts made on the premises and offering tailoring services. They also offer half or full-day workshops, where visitors learn the craft of Laotian weaving. This includes designing patterns, tying thread, dyeing (using natural colour), and trial loom weaving.
Participants get to take their creations home. The cost of the workshops usually includes transfer (pick up in front of Mixay Temple) and lunch. If you want to make your own way to the centre, Houey Hong is also reachable by tuk tuks and local buses.
Opening Hours: Monday through Saturday 08:30 – 12:00, 13:30 - 16:30
Location: Houey Hong Village, Chanthabury District
Meditation
Every Saturday local monks lead a walking and sitting meditation session at Wat Sok Pa Luang. Between 16:00 and 17:30, the sessions take place in pavilions and within the garden. Everyone is welcome, the session is, of course, free of charge and a translator is present for the after-period question time. Twice a year the Buddhist teacher holds intensive Vispassana meditation workshops at the monastery, open to all who wish to join.
Swimming
Swimming is popular and easily accessible in Vientiane although you might want to think twice before jumping head first into the Mekong; currents are notoriously fast and dangerous. As you might imagine, the best swimming pools can be found in the better hotels and they usually allow outsiders in at charge.
According to myth, the city of Vientiane was created by the Naga Souvannanak. Vientiane was an ancient city whose territories covered both banks of the Mekong River. The first name of Vientiane was “Ban Nong Khanthae Phiseuanam” village, which later became “Vientiane” town under the leadership of the first Governor, Bourichan or Phraya Chanthabouly Pasitthisak, between 430-120 B.C.
In 1357 King Fa Ngoum held a grandiose celebration for the great victory of the unification of all Lao territories enhancing his prestige and power over the nobility throughout the Lane Xang Kingdom and the neighboring kingdoms. It was organized in the Pak Pasak area in present day Vientiane.
In 1560, King Saysettha moved from Luang Prabang to declare Vientiane as the capital city of the Lane Xang kingdom, naming it “Nakorn Chanthabouly Sitta tanakhanahood Outtama Rajathany”.
During the reign of King Souliyavongsa Thamikarat in the 17th century, Vientiane grew to become one of the most developed civilizations. The city was the center of administration for politics, socio-economics and culture. The kings were brave, clever and kind and people were happy. The palaces were very beautiful, looking like golden houses standing along the bank of the Mekong River.
However, Vientiane was burnt down by Siames troops in 1828, and divided into two cities. The city on the right side of the Mekong River became part of Siam and the city on the left side remained part of Laos. At present, Vientiane is a smaller city, only half of its former size.
In the years of 2009 and 2010; two great historical events took place in Vientiane. In 2009 the city hosted the 25th annual SEA Games and in 2010 it held a celebration of the 450th anniversary of the foundation of Vientiane as the Capital (1560-2010). To prepared for the above auspicious events Vientiane people have continued developing the city to be peaceful, clean, green, charming, light and civilized.
Vieng (Vien) in the Lao language means “the city”.
Chantha (tiane) a Pali word, means sandalwood or the moon. Vientiane is the city of sandalwood and sandalwood is the symbol of Vientiane. It could also be the city of the moon, or the city where people respect the moon as their symbol. It is true however, that Lao people believe their origin to be from the moon, and even the design of the national flag has the image of the moon in its center.
In the old part of Vientiane city, an attractive and interesting settlement is situated along the Mekong River where the ancient temples, museums, monuments and parks are all located just a short distance apart.
The cosmopolitan capital of Laos, Vientiane, has galleries, boutiques, theatres, nightclubs and internet cafe, making it a major attraction for visitors from all around the globe. Although the city is small, it offers visitors a great variety of restaurants serving both Lao and foreign cuisine.
One of the Laos people's favourite pastimes – as will become apparent when you are there – is sitting and watching the time pass by. The French coined the phrase: ‘The Vietnamese plant the rice, the Cambodians watch it grow and the Laos listen to it grow’. Understandably, this is not in everyone’s nature, but a few hours of guzzling Beer Lao on the tranquil shores of the Mekong, is kind of mandatory for any Vientiane visitor.
Alternatively, the numerous educational sites, natural wonders and startling scenery should satisfy. For those who want to work up a sweat by other means than walking, trying taking an arranged hike, bike ride or working your way around one of the picturesque golf courses
Lao Herbal Steam Sauna and Massage
Spas and massage shops are in plentiful supply in Vientiane, offering something for every budget. But for something more memorable, take the three kilometre trip out of the centre to Wat Sok Pa Luang, and down a path to the side of the temple you will find a rickety old jungle house offering Lao massage and traditional herbal spa; a hand-painted sign points the way.
The traditional massage and herbal sauna experience at Wat Sok Pa Luang isn’t for everyone as the facilities are basic, on the other end of the spectrum to a fancy hotel spa treatment, without the sycophantic staff or exclusiveness. But what you do get is the most authentic experience, with true Laotian hospitality and massage beds so close to the forest you can reach out and touch it. This massage centre originally became famous as the place where nuns from the adjoining temple gave healing massages to monks. The nuns are no longer there, but the therapeutic and utterly relaxing environment lives on. Life here is so laidback, even the chickens pecking through the foliage seem to take their time.
Visitors are first asked to change into a sarong and then enter the sauna, a rustic wooden slatted outhouse. The steam is infused with an intensely fragrant mix of fresh herbs and spices, including lemongrass, basil, mint, rosemary and eucalyptus. These ingredients are prepared and placed in water that is heated on an open fire burning below the shed. The effect is like a steam-slap in the face, but you quickly acclimatise and with each deep breath, the herbs work their magic, opening up pores and cleansing lungs. Once you feel suitably relaxed, it’s time for a quick ‘shower’ using a big earthen pot which is filled with fresh water from an underground well.
Next, it’s on to the massage. Laos massage is similar to its Thai cousin, just a little softer and more relaxing. It still gets the blood pumping into every muscle though, leaving you relaxed, yet more invigorated, like every good massage should. The traditional spa is really something different, as the sounds of the forest and the sunshine breaking through the bamboo shades are as central to the experience as the massage itself. Once you have been rubbed and massaged from your feet right up to your head, hot tea is served on the open veranda looking out into the forest.
Not within walking distance, a trip to Wat Sok Pa Luang might be as far from the tourist centre as you will travel during your stay in Vientiane. Having said that, it is only a ten minute motorbike ride away, travelling east past Talat Sao Morning Market and the COPE Visitor Centre.
This is the kind of leisure activity that is slowly being lost; replaced by modern spas with all the latest amenities but none of the mystical charisma. The traditional spa and herbal massage at Wat Sok Pa Luang is exactly the kind of therapeutic treatment that was taking place in Laos over a century ago when the French colonists were dotting the landscape with grand villas and allows visitors a chance to experience a side of Laos that is slowly slipping into the confines of history.
Houey Hong Vocational Training Centre for Women
Houey Hong Vocational Training Centre for Women was established originally to provide training in the art of weaving for Lao women from poor backgrounds. Over time, with funding from international non-governmental organizations, the training centre has expanded its scope to include minority ethnic groups and disabled folk.
The Centre was founded by Japanese-educated Chanthasone Inthavong in 1998, and offers short courses in weaving, dyeing, sewing and small business administration. Together with the job placement programme, it hopes to help generate income for people from disadvantaged backgrounds.
Situated seven km from Vientiane city centre in a Houey Hong Village, Chanthabury District, the centre is surrounded by a pleasant garden. There are altogether eight buildings, some of which are dedicated studios and workshop areas for weaving, dyeing, and tailoring.
The sporadic nature of its funding means that the centre has to support itself and it does so by selling crafts made on the premises and offering tailoring services. They also offer half or full-day workshops, where visitors learn the craft of Laotian weaving. This includes designing patterns, tying thread, dyeing (using natural colour), and trial loom weaving.
Participants get to take their creations home. The cost of the workshops usually includes transfer (pick up in front of Mixay Temple) and lunch. If you want to make your own way to the centre, Houey Hong is also reachable by tuk tuks and local buses.
Opening Hours: Monday through Saturday 08:30 – 12:00, 13:30 - 16:30
Location: Houey Hong Village, Chanthabury District
Meditation
Every Saturday local monks lead a walking and sitting meditation session at Wat Sok Pa Luang. Between 16:00 and 17:30, the sessions take place in pavilions and within the garden. Everyone is welcome, the session is, of course, free of charge and a translator is present for the after-period question time. Twice a year the Buddhist teacher holds intensive Vispassana meditation workshops at the monastery, open to all who wish to join.
Swimming
Swimming is popular and easily accessible in Vientiane although you might want to think twice before jumping head first into the Mekong; currents are notoriously fast and dangerous. As you might imagine, the best swimming pools can be found in the better hotels and they usually allow outsiders in at charge.